What are ilkal saris
Ilkal sari is a traditional form of sari It is common female clothing in India. Ilkal Sari takes its name from the town of Ilkal in the Indian district of Bagalkot in the Indian state of Karnataka. Ilkal saris are woven with a cotton chain on the body and an artificial silk chain for the border and an artificial silk chain for the pallu part of the sari. In some cases, pure silk is used instead of rayon. Ilkal Sari has been awarded the Geographical Indication (GI). The GI tag number is 76.
Ilkal was an ancient weaving center where weaving appears to have started in the 8th century AD. The growth of these saris is attributed to the patronage of local chiefs in and around the town of Bellary. The availability of local raw materials contributed to the growth of this saree. About 20,000 people are engaged in sari weaving in Ilkal city.
- The uniqueness of saree is that it connects the body chain to the pallu chain with a series of loops locally called the TOPE TENI technique.
- The weaver will only go 6 yards, 8 yards, 9 yards warp due to the TOPE TENI technique mentioned above. The KONDI technique is used to shoot by inserting 3 shuttles (లాళి).
- Pallau portion design: “TOPE TENI SERAGU” Normally in Tope Teni Seragu 3 solid portions are red and between 2 portions are white.
- Tope Teni Seragu was seen as a state symbol and was very respected at festivals.
- Traditional borders: (i) Chikki, (ii) Gomi, (iii) Jari and (iv) Gadidadi and the modern day Gayathri are unique in Ilkal Saris - width from 2.5 "to 4"
- Uniqueness of the border color: Usually red or maroon dominates.
The peculiar characteristic of the sari is the connection of the body chain with the pallu chain, which is locally referred to as TOPE TENI. This technique is only used at Ilkal. If someone needs Ilkal sari, one has to prepare a warp for each saree. Warp threads for the body are prepared separately. Similarly, Pallu Warp is made separately with either rayon or pure silk, depending on the desired quality. Third, an edge portion of the chain is made, like the pallu chain, either rayon or pure silk, and the color used for pallu and on the border is one and the same. Generally, the length of the pallu ranges from 16 "to 27". The pallu and body sutures are connected using a loop technique, a unique method locally known as TOPE TENI.
The specialty of Ilkal Saris is the use of a stick shape called Kasuti. The designs used in Kasuti reflect traditional patterns such as sedan chairs, elephants and lotus flowers that are embroidered on Ilkal saris. These saris are usually 9 feet long and the Pallu the Ilkal Sari (the part that is worn over the shoulder) carries designs of temple towers. This pallu is usually made of red silk with white patterns. The end area of the pallu consists of patterns of different shapes such as Hanige (Comb), koti kammli (Fortress walls), Toputenne (Jowar) and rampa (Mountains). The edge of the sari is very wide (4 to 6 inches) and red or maroon and consists of various designs with ocher patterns. The sari is either made of cotton or a mixture of cotton and silk or made of pure silk. The colors traditionally used are pomegranate red, bright peacock green, and parrot green. The saris that are made for bridal wear have a specific color called as Giri Kumukum what is associated with the Sindhoor worn by the wives of the priests in this region.
Types of borders
The design woven in the longitudinal edges is mainly of three types:
- Gomi (better known as Ilkal Dadi)
- Parapet (divided into Chikki-Paras and Dodd-Paras)
Main body design
With the above wide parameters, the Ilkal sarees differ in terms of the size, type and quality of the yarn used for different parts of the saree, as well as in terms of color combinations and combinations of patterns on the edges and on the main body of the saree. The beauty of Tope-teni seragu is sometimes enhanced by the weave in the middle section, another design known as "kyadgi".
Weaving Ilkal saris is mostly an indoor activity. It is essentially a household business that has female members actively involved. Weaving a sari with the help of the hand loom takes about 7 days. We can also weave it with the help of the loom.
Production methods []
Ilkal traditional saris are mainly made on pit looms with the combination of three different types of yarn, namely silk x silk, silk x cotton, rayon x cotton. Along with the above yarn combination, a total of four different traditional designs are made - Chikki Paras, Gomi, Jari and recently modified traditional design Gayathri.
These saris are made in various lengths of 6.00 yards, 8.00 yards, and 9.00 yards with solid and contrasting edges.
The main difference in these saris is the attached temple-type Pallav (known locally as TOPE TENI), in which the body chain and the Pallav chain interlock using a loop system and the weft is followed by three shuttles using yarn of two different colors Kondi technique is introduced.
A weaver needs two more besides himself for the preparatory work.
See also []
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