A 104 TC cotton is good

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Is the thread count a quality feature?

"Thread count" or thread density are terms that are often used in connection with the quality determination of textiles. Thread counts (TC) indicate the number of threads per inch (2.54 cm) of a piece of fabric.

In recent years, the indication of the TC has developed into a very popular quality feature, especially for bed linen. However, this information is not meaningful, because TC / thread density is not the only decisive factor for the quality of the bed linen. Due to the lack of international standards regarding TC, textiles with exactly the same thread count can have very different markings. - This makes it very difficult to find out what quality a product really is. At Georg Jensen Damast, we have therefore decided to define the following basic parameters as quality criteria: the fiber quality, the yarn quality, the dyeing, the weaving principle, the aftertreatment and the thread density.

1. The fiber quality (Egyptian cotton, cotton and linen)

2. The yarn quality

3. The dyeing

4. The web principle

5. Post-treatment / mercerization

6. The thread count
The quality of plant fibers such as cotton depends on the fiber length (staple length) and the fineness of the fiber. The longer the fiber, the stronger and finer the threads are. Egyptian cotton has the longest cotton fibers. The fiber length of Egyptian cotton is between 30 and 50 mm. Georg Jensen Damask uses Egyptian cotton for tablecloths, bed linen and towels. Linen is also used for tablecloths, kimonos, tea towels and dishcloths.

Linen is the epitome of a sustainable textile raw material that has excellent properties: it is durable, antibacterial, insulating and cooling in summer. In addition, this textile effortlessly absorbs moisture. In fact, linen shares some of the same properties as wool.
Our textiles are all woven from high quality yarns. These are dyed before weaving in order to achieve the highest possible color fastness. Yarn is an umbrella term for a strand of textile fibers. The thread construction shows whether the product consists of single or twisted threads. At Georg Jensen Damask we only use single yarns for bed linen. This is only possible because we primarily use Egyptian cotton. Twisted yarn causes a higher TC, which usually makes the product coarser. Take linen for example - linen is a high quality product, but it only has a TC of 50. This is because the individual linen threads are stronger than cotton threads. A high TC cannot serve as a meaningful quality feature on its own.
Georg Jensen Damask mainly uses yarn dyeing because this type of dyeing ensures that the home textiles have the highest possible color and wash fastness. However, one must be aware that a lightfast color also fades if it is exposed to sunlight for a long time.
The damask weaving technique is characterized by textiles that have a high thread density and fineness. When weaving, two right-angled thread systems are intertwined, with the longitudinal threads forming the warp and the transverse threads forming the weft. A distinction can be made between shaft and jacquard weaving. With shaft weaving, simple patterns such as checks and stripes are created, while with jacquard weaving complex patterns and designs can be created, as we know it from the damask tablecloths.

The weaves are the crossings that arise when the warp and weft threads form a pattern: There are three types of basic weave - the plain weave, the twill weave and the satin weave.
Georg Jensen Damask uses all three types of basic weave - depending on the end product. The different types of weave contribute to the optimal look of the different designs in their own way.
Georg Jensen Damask uses all three types of basic weave - depending on the end product. The different types of weave contribute to the optimal look of the different designs in their own way.

5. Post-treatment / mercerization

Post-treatment can give the cotton yarn and the woven cotton yard goods a number of additional properties. At Georg Jensen Damast, we use mercerization. This is a permanent refinement process for cotton products.

This treatment ensures a smooth and shiny look and at the same time strengthens the fibers and their dirt-repellent properties.
Consequently, it is not the number of threads per inch that is decisive for the quality, but rather the quality of the cotton and the quality of the weave.